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Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto

Prize(s) Winners in Fashion Design Lighting
Company Studio ZNA
Lead Designers Zerlina Hughes
Other Designer's names Saumya Monga
Architecture Company Amanda Levete (existing gallery)
Interior Design Company Storey Studio
Client Victoria and Albert Museum, South Kensington
Photo Credits Thomas Adank
Other Credits Graphic Design: The Bon Ton, Sound Design: Coda to Coda
Completion Date 16/09/2023
Project Location London
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Entry Description

Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto is the first UK exhibition dedicated to the work of Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel, charting the establishment of the House of CHANEL and the evolution of her iconic design style.The lighting design was key in allowing visitors to appreciate the objects with their exquisite details, forms, textures and materiality in close viewing - achieved at low conservation light levels whilst also creating a wider luminous, elegant layered lightscape within the exhibition world they inhabit.


Inspired by Storey Studio’s approach, the Studio proposed the visitors experience the objects under subtly shifting light treatments, moving through the sections from morning, noon, afternoon, dusk to night time in both exterior and interior, rural and urban contexts. At times this was abstracted:in the entrance sequences with fresh crisp morning lightand in the perfume room where an effect of beams of light passing through a gold liquid perfume bottle was created. At other times, more suggestive in the evening wear section through elegantly shifting dappled light supporting both thematic narrative and evoking mood, contemplation and wonder.

With 200 objects of fashion, textile, accessories and photography, such sensitive works required careful choreography and by working closley with the designers an exciting and varied visual journey was created throughout the show.
Sustainability Approach

All the light fixtures specified are LED and a large number of these feature dynamic white controls to ensure flexible re-use in the future by the museum for other exhibitions. the Studio always champion first using fixtures and equipment available in the museum stock to reduce waste and promote re-use. Working with their technicians and manufacturers; existing stock light fixtures are upgraded regularly with high colour rendering LED chips reduce waste of fixture bodies.

Any fixtures purchased specially for the show are supplied by UK-based manufacturers and the Studio keep detailed records of these and provides de-install guidelines to ensure they can be easily reused in the next exhibitions ensuring a long life for these fittings.